Jaw-dropping. Breathtaking. Magical.

Nothing can prepare you for your first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Well, I didn't feel prepared at least. But let's back up.

 

Machu Picchu — one of the Seven New Wonders of the World — was an Incan city built in the 15th century during the reign of Inca emperor Pachacuti and is believed to have been a royal estate or sacred ceremonial site. There is evidence of temples, schools, private residences, among other things. Hidden away high in the Peruvian Andes, it managed to avoid destruction during the Spanish conquest, remaining largely unknown to the outside world until historian Hiram Bingham brought international attention to it in 1911. The city’s remote location helped preserve its incredible mortar-free stonework and terraced fields, giving visitors an up-close and vivid window into the ingenuity of the Incas.

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As clouds part and the first sunray shines down on the ancient ("machu" in Quechuan, the language of the Incas) city perched atop a mountain ("picchu"), I was struck with awe and disbelief. It’s a thrilling scene — so surreal it felt like a dream. The spell this forgotten Inca citadel casts on visitors is undeniable.

 

Getting there, though ...
 

From Cusco, with Altitude

After a fantastic week in Lima, I flew to Cusco, the ancient capital city of the Incan Empire that proudly blends Inca remnants with Spanish details brought by the Conquistadors. Its elevation is 11,000 ft and change, so more than double that of Denver. It took a day or two to acclimate to the altitude since I had come from sea level — I even got a prescription from my doctor to help me adjust. The altitude is no joke, especially if you're planning to see Rainbow Mountain (do it!) at 17,000 ft. No one wants to be sick during an epic trip like this! 

 

Anyway, I booked an organized tour for Machu Picchu, mainly because there are strict governmental regulations to meet, and choosing a circuit can be confusing (e.g., what's a circuit?!). Plus, my Spanish isn't great, and my pre-trip research suggested that English might be harder to find in Peru than other Spanish-speaking places I've been. I was also considering the rest of my travel plans. Many visitors go straight to Aguas Calientes, or hike the Inca Trail*, of course, but I was planning to see lots of things around Cusco (the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Rainbow Mountain, the salt mines, and more), so I chose Cusco as my base.

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Van > Bus > Train > Bus > Stairs

Pickup was at 5:00 a.m. — and consisted of a 5-minute van ride to the local train station. If I had known how close I was, I would have walked, but the ride was part of my tour. A guide instructed me where to enter the train station to purchase a bus ticket. Yes, a bus ticket from the train station. There was a line of people waiting for their buses, and free coffee. I got in line and sipped my coffee. There was no English being spoken, so the levels of confusion rose as the minutes ticked by, but eventually station staff called for numbers shown on our tickets. We all boarded our corresponding buses, and headed off into the sunrise.

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Ollantaytambo

The 3-hour bus ride ended at the train station in Ollantaytambo [oh-YAWN-tay-tom-bo] , a small and ancient agricultural town in the Sacred Valley with a well-maintained Incan fortress that is absolutely worth a visit. I had climbed to the top of the temple a few days before on a different tour, so this day was just for Machu Picchu. 

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A guide held a sign over her head and led everyone to a waiting area for the train. She told us in Spanish which train cars to look for (on our tickets) and pointed to the signs along the tracks. I had no trouble finding my train car and seat inside. The train, called the Vistadome, had huge panoramic windows that wrapped each side of the car and extended up overhead. The train was full of chatter and movement, but the incredible views during the 1.5-hour journey were quiet and hypnotizing — I imagined the Incas living in and traversing the same scenery my eyes were seeing that day.

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Aguas Calientes

After arriving in Aguas Calientes ("hot waters"), a different guide with a different sign held over her head walked the group from the train station through a giant market (Mercado Artesanal), with lots of twists and turns that didn't appear to be labeled. This would have been the most difficult part if I wasn't with a tour, because the market had hundreds of stalls that looked very similar — getting lost seemed inevitable. When we popped out of the market and into the street, the view was amazing. Aguas Calientes is the town at the base of Machu Picchu known for its thermal baths and lush, tropical surroundings. There's a raging river bouncing through the center of town with historic bridges to stop and breathe it all in. Looking back, I wish I had spent a few days there. We eventually made it to the entrance of Machu Picchu, and my adrenaline was pumping.

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I immediately spied a guy holding a sign with my name on it: He was my guide, Victor, and right away he took me to a booth where officials checked passports and entrance tickets. Visits to Machu Picchu are highly regulated, and you have to have proof of your identity to purchase an entrance ticket well before your trip to Peru, and again when you get to the gates. Because the number of visitors allowed into Machu Picchu per day is limited, tickets can sell out very quickly. I suggest booking at least a few months in advance, and, if you can't, you may have to plan your trip to Peru around ticket availability for Machu Picchu. My documents were inspected and approved, and Victor and I boarded a small bus that takes about 20 to 30 minutes to climb the mountain and drop you off in the clouds. (Um, exactly these buses — don't tell my mom!) I thought I'd catch a glimpse of the ruins, but not yet.

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Victor's English was excellent, and we both laughed at my Spanish. He asked, "Do you wanna climb now, or climb later?" I chose the "now" option, and he patiently led me up the 1,600 or so stones that are the stairway to the top of the Machu Picchu citadel. Victor told me that he'd recently turned 40, and had been making that climb with people like me twice a day for 18 years. He was a gem. The phrase "it's all downhill from here" applied, but in the best way possible! And it became very easy to understand why the Conquistadors never found this place.

 

You'll Choose Your Circuit Ahead of Time

A limited number of tickets are available for each day, and are split among four different "circuits" — designated paths through the ruins that keep humans moving and divert the amount of foot traffic around the site. Circuit 1 offers sweeping views and access to the upper and lower areas — including the spot for the iconic photo of the site we've all seen. Circuit 2 is the most complete route, passing through all of the major landmarks and familiar photo spots (check out my photos below!), plus the Sacred Plaza and the Temple of the Sun. Circuit 3 is shorter and focuses more on the agricultural terraces, making it ideal for those looking for a lighter walk. Circuit 4 covers the lower areas and includes separate access to climb Huayna Picchu (the peak in the background of everyone's Machu Picchu pics), which rewards hikers with a panoramic view of the ruins below. My ticket was for Circuit 2.​

Hire a Guide!

While the transportation from Cusco was with a large number of other travelers, I didn't know I'd have Victor all to myself until I met him at the gates of Machu Picchu. When I reserved the tour online months before, I had no idea that I was booking a private tour, as the title and description didn't mention it. It's actually something I'd never done before in all my travels! So, I was surprised, but extremely grateful in the end. Hiring a private guide [intentionally] is probably the best way to get the most out of your visit. While the views are undeniably stunning and you can certainly take them in on your own, having a knowledgeable local guide with Incan blood in their veins can really bring the place to life — sharing stories and history, pointing out architectural details you might miss, and explaining the cultural significance of what you're seeing. They also help you navigate the site’s layout and make sure you're following the rules, making your experience much smoother and more enjoyable. 

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Back to Mind Being Blown

So ... I was truly not prepared for what I saw. While I haven't seen all of the 7 Wonders (yet!), I cannot image how another Wonder could be this awe-inspiring. Machu Picchu is much, much larger and more vast than I expected, and to learn that the stones that make up the city came from a distance away, it becomes unbelievable that humans built this compound on top of a mountain. The theories of aliens being responsible start to cross your mind, just sayin'! 

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If you ever have the chance to make this journey, pounce. The effort is worth it, the long day is worth it, the confusing and multiple modes of transportation are worth it, the bazillion stone steps are worth it, seeing and touching the mind-boggling mortar-free construction that's lasted through centuries of earthquakes and weather is worth it. It's alllllll worth it. The feeling that washes over you as you stand on the sacred ground of this sacred lost city is something you will never forget.

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*My guide, Victor, told me that locals call the Inca Trail the "Gringo Killer," because us gringos (he said this affectionately, of course!) seem to expect the well-manicured, mostly level, paved walking trails that we're accustomed to in parks across the U.S. The Inca Trail, however, is as much an interconnection of uneven stone stairways as it is mountain trails, and many aren't prepared for the challenging climbs at such altitudes. So if you're wanting to hike the Inca Trail, make sure your training includes a Stairmaster! :D

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A FEW OF MY PHOTOS:​​