
Been-there
SOUTHWEST U.S.
JOURNAL:

All photos: © Andrea Kline
ON A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY ...
The classic Eagles song is hard to miss when you're on the road in the American Southwest: "On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair ..." The rest of the song, well, maybe not. But I certainly felt the wind in my hair (and under my metaphoric sails) on a solo road trip through parts of Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico in September. I had a work event in Denver, so I decided to make a trip out of it and explore south of there once the work part was complete. I mean, why not?
There’s something intensely liberating about hitting the highway with no one else around except my own thoughts — the playlists are mine, the stops are spontaneous, and the stretches between tiny towns become space to think, breathe, and sink into the increasingly red and rocky landscapes. Driving forces one to live in the moment, take in one's surroundings, and just be.
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Leg 1: Des Moines → Kearney → Denver
I left Des Moines early afternoon, with much more than I needed packed in my Jeep. The first long haul was across Nebraska — not exactly the most exciting scenery, but there’s peace in the open fields and wide skies. Kearney was my halfway stop — a quiet little town with a surprisingly cool attraction: the Great Platte River Road Archway, an overpass museum stretching across I-80. While I didn't stop at the museum, I did stop to enjoy the pool and hot tub at my hotel. It was the perfect entry into adopting a badass 'road warrior' persona for 10 days.
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The next day, as I approached Denver, the terrain began to shift. Flat farmland gave way to hills, and the feet of the Rocky Mountains began to rise up on the horizon. It also downpoured as I entered the city limits, and I was grateful because it slowed down the traffic. I had two and a half days of productive work activities in Lakewood that recharged me professionally. Then I headed out into the great unknown.
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Leg 2: Denver → Moab
The drive from Denver to Moab, Utah, was utterly beautiful. I-70 cuts through the heart of the Rockies, past dramatic cliffs, alpine tunnels, all with jaw-dropping views. Loved the scenery, hated the mountain highways. This Midwesterner isn't used to dangerously steep declines, runaway truck lanes, and speed limits that defied [my] logic. A work colleague in Denver suggested that, after I get through the mountains, I hop off the highway and reach Moab on a back road that winds along the Colorado River, with towering red cliffs on either side. I'm so glad I did: That stretch of road was some of my most favorite of the whole trip.
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Moab was my base for three days — near Arches and Canyonlands — and I stayed at the quirky Expedition Lodge on the main drag. First up was Arches National Park, which requires a park pass, plus a timed entry ticket that must be booked online before arriving, if you plan to visit between April and October. I stopped at Park Avenue, Balanced Rock, Courthouse Towers, Petrified Dunes, the Windows Section, Delicate Arch, Devil's Garden, and several other viewpoints along the way. Rain and hail hit occasionally, so I stayed on shorter trails near the main road. The park was crowded, but the timed entry seemed to help. Gorgeous park.
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Later in the day, I took a detour into the La Sal Mountains and drove the La Sal Loop Road. It was a nice contrast to all of the red rock — cool mountain air, alpine lakes, and swaying trees just an hour away from the desert scenes of Arches. Cows freely grazed on the dirt roads, which felt strange to me, but they seemed right at home.
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The next day, I went to the northern section of Canyonlands National Park, about 40 minutes north Moab, known as Island in the Sky. Canyonlands also requires a park pass, which grants entry to all areas, north and south of Moab. I stood in awe looking at Island in the Sky, with sweeping canyon vistas and dramatic overlooks, and watched several storms float in and then out over the mesas. The views from White Rim, Buck Canyon, and Grand View Point outlooks were incredible. As I was hoofin' it up Whale Rock, a giant smooth rock in the shape of a whale, it began to hail and sleet. I made it back to my car and tried to wait it out, but the rain didn't let up, so I unfortunately left that section of the park earlier than I wanted to. I decided to drive the 75 miles to the southern section of Canyonlands, called the Needles, hoping the clouds would roll out while I rolled down the highway ... And they did. Wow, I loved the Needles area for its otherworldly rock formations and indiginous peoples' shelters and murals (Newspaper Rock).​ It was later in the day, so I again stayed on short trails and watched the sunset from the various outlooks in the Slickrock area of the park.
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Leg 3: Moab → Page
The next morning, I left Moab before the sun came up to head south into Arizona, to make a booked tour of Antelope Canyon near Lake Powell and the small town of Page. I know you've seen the photos: It's is the place where beams of light shine from bright blue skies above into the red slot canyon and onto visitors below. A tour reservation is the only way to see Antelope Canyon, so book ahead, especially if you want to go midday when the sunbeams are most dramatic. This unique spot is located on Navajo land, and many of the tour operators and guides are Navajo citizens. These guides are incredible: Beyond explaining the formation of the canyon and relaying Navajo folklore about they site, they offer to change the settings on your camera to help you get the best photos. Now mine look like the iconic photos I saw before I arrived. Antelope Canyon is absolutely stunning.
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Oh, on the way, I drove through Monument Valley and stopped for a pic at Forrest Gump Point, made famous by the movie, obviously. "Run, Forrest, ruuuuuuun!"
After the tour, I checked into my hotel and then made my way to Wahweap Overlook, the perfect spot in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area to have a glass of wine and watch the sunset over Lake Powell.
I was expecting the reds and browns of the desert, but I was not expecting to really fall in love with the color palette of this part of the country. The wide and rich blue skies against the dusty reds of the mesas, tempered by the muted sage greens of the bush where really breathtaking. It was a type of beauty I didn't know I would enjoy so much.​
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The next day was all about Lake Powell. I booked a day-long tour to kayak, hike, and swim in and around the lake, in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. I was the only solo kayaker, so the others had two paddles to my one, which made me pretty slow. I didn't mind, it wasn't a race, and the bright white cliffs on the lake's edges were worth slowing down to see. We kayaked into the canyon, where the waterway narrowed and bigger boats weren't allowed. It was a peaceful and stress-free float to the starting point of the hike. I loved the hike because the deeper we got into the canyon, the narrower the passageway, to the point of having to climb up to the next walkable area. This was a moderate hike, so after two or three climbing sections, our guide turned us around and we leisurely made our way back to the kayaks. We paddled back the same way we came, but stopped at a small beach to swim and cool off. A few people scaled the white cliffs and jumped into the water ... I was too relaxed below to do that. Then we paddled back to our starting point and the day tour was over. From there, I drove just north of Page into Utah to Lone Rock and watched another beautiful sunset.
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Leg 4: Page → Great Sand Dunes → DES MOINES
The last stretch of my National Park tour took me north again, back into Colorado. Minor detour (about 18 miles) to stop at the Four Corners Monument, where Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet. Lots of pushy people wanting their photos! I quickly got mine and left the squabbling humans behind. I planned my midway stop to be near the Great Sand Dunes National Park in southern Colorado. Driving toward the dunes, they seemed small ... until I got closer, and closer, and closer: The towering dunes against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains created a cool fusion of desert and mountain forest. It was striking and gorgeous. I walked around the base of the dunes and up part way to get a different view of the shadows crossing the sand. It was late in the afternoon, so I didn't want to be caught too far up after dark. After the sunset, I drove another hour or so to Walsenburg, where I had a room reserved for the night. I had no idea that the hotel I had booked was a biker haven, so having to weave between motorcycles to get to the entrance and park my car a block away was ... different. I was going to have a long day ahead of me to get back to Des Moines, and the looks I got at breakfast really boosted my spirits as I left that place behind.​
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I spent about 11 hours on the road the next day to get myself home. Was it long? Yes. Was it boring? Kinda, because GPS said going back through Nebraska would be the quickest (vs. through Kansas), and I had just seen that stretch a week before. But I again cranked up the music and sang until my throat was dry. Soon enough I was driving into a storm as I got back into the metro. A rainbow greeted me as I made my way home.
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Final Thoughts: Why Solo?
Not everyone can handle that much time alone. While I love seeing my friends and family, I can really thrive in solitude, too. I thought I'd get tired of myself or that all of the driving would get boring, but I didn't, and it wasn't. Turns out I'm an absolute delight, LOL!
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If you're considering a solo road trip through the Southwest (or anywhere), do it. I will most definitely hit the road again sometime, maybe north into the Dakotas, Montana, and Wyoming. Maybe east to meander through Upstate New York. Maybe somewhere else. It really won't matter, because I found that the open road has a way of meeting you where you are and getting you exactly where you need to go.
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Miles Driven: ~2,500
National Parks/Recreational Areas Visited: 6
Favorite Views: Slickrock views in Canyonlands, Park Avenue lookout in Arches, views from the La Sal Mountains Loop Road
Playlist: A rotating mix of indie pop, alt road-trip rock, and a lot of terrible singing (you can follow my playlist!)
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Want tips on solo travel, roadtripping essentials, or the best views in each park? Reach out — I’ve got stories and ideas to share.
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A FEW OF MY PHOTOS:
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